
Axmouth to Lincoln: On the Roman Way
Season 2 Episode 4 | 46m 21sVideo has Closed Captions
We’ll be visiting Somerset, the Cotswolds and the Midlands.
Christopher Timothy and Peter Davison present a light-hearted and inspiring celebration of early motor car travel. In this episode, we’ll be visiting Somerset, the Cotswolds and the Midlands, we'll attempt some tricky Roman roads, and encounter the former heartland of the British motor industry. Vehicles include ‘the Beast of Turin’ and a Wolseley police car.
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Axmouth to Lincoln: On the Roman Way
Season 2 Episode 4 | 46m 21sVideo has Closed Captions
Christopher Timothy and Peter Davison present a light-hearted and inspiring celebration of early motor car travel. In this episode, we’ll be visiting Somerset, the Cotswolds and the Midlands, we'll attempt some tricky Roman roads, and encounter the former heartland of the British motor industry. Vehicles include ‘the Beast of Turin’ and a Wolseley police car.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[upbeat music] PETER (VOICEOVER): My name is Peter Davison, and I've always loved classic cars.
It's such an elegant way of traveling.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): I'm Christopher Timothy.
I have a passion for history and Britain's great heritage.
I just like finding out about the past.
It's intriguing.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We've been friends ever since our All Creatures Great and Small days.
Just take it easy, will you?
Relax, Jim.
Enjoy yourself.
Into first gear.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Now, 40 years later, we're returning to the golden age of motoring and setting off on a series of classic road trips, 1930s style.
You see the map in your hand?
That's for navigating Yeah, but it's not-- We don't have a satnav.
We don't have any other means of find where we're going.
It's not as easy as all-- it's not as easy as all that.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We'll uncover incredible historical secrets.
Fantastic.
It's fascinating.
It's fascinating.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We'll tackle the toughest driving challenges we've ever faced.
[tires screeching, rumbling] Take it easy, buddy.
PETER (VOICEOVER): And meet some truly remarkable people.
You are what real heroes are, aren't you?
You're the genuine article.
An absolute privilege.
- And me, from me to you.
Thank you so much.
Hats on.
Roof down.
Home, James.
[whimsical music] PETER (VOICEOVER): Today we tackle an epic 270-mile journey as we drive the route of the Fosse Way, one of the longest roads in Roman Britain.
Beginning in Devon, we'll uncover extraordinary historical sites and travel through the heart of the British motor industry before reaching our journey's end in Lincolnshire.
Along the way, I'll relive my youth in a beautifully preserved Coventry made car.
Good snogging car, would you say?
It wasn't really so much for snogging, but you could do this.
Oh, that's really-- see that?
That's really nice.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We discover a unique meeting point in a very unlikely location.
That, Chris, is the center of Roman Britain.
Wow.
PETER (VOICEOVER): And we'll have a brush with the law, 1930s style.
You better pull over, Chris.
Morning, officer.
Do you know it's an offense to drive slowly on the highway?
Do you know I didn't?
[honks horn] - Good.
Good sound.
Today we're beginning one of our longest journeys so far.
It's a road that's particularly interesting to me, because it runs right through the Midlands, which in the 1930s was the beating heart of the burgeoning British car manufacturing business.
It's a journey that will satisfy my love of motoring as well as Chris's passion for history.
PETER (VOICEOVER): I'm heading to Axmouth, the start of this mighty Roman route, and the place I've arranged to meet Chris.
CHRISTOPHER: So here I am at the mouth of the river Ax, where Peter is going to pick me up.
It's beautiful, it's tranquil, serene almost, which slightly belies the epic journey that we have before us.
[upbeat music] PETER: There he is.
I can't believe it.
He's a much better navigator out of the car than he is in it.
[laughs] ♪ ♪ - Hey, good to see you.
- How are you?
Good.
So this is the beginning of our longest journey, one of our longest journeys.
And it's along the Roman road, the Fosse Way.
Yes.
Not sure which it is, but anyway, we'll find out.
No, it's interchangeable, you see.
- Is it?
- Yeah.
From here to Lincoln, some of the way, it's actually called the Fosse Way, and sometimes it's called the Roman Way.
And the reason is because Fosse comes from the Latin fossa, which means ditch.
And the implication is that the road follows the line almost identically to what was the defensive ditch.
Make sense?
- Are you feeling all right?
- I'm feeling good.
Why?
It seems to have done some research.
I'm getting nervous.
PETER (VOICEOVER): Once again, we've ditched the satnav and we'll be traveling golden age of motoring style in a 1930s designed car, our trusty Morgan 4/4.
♪ ♪ Feels like only yesterday.
Here we go.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Heading Northeast from Axmouth, our journey will take us through eight counties, rich in history and filled with unique motoring gems.
We'll pass through the Midlands, home of the 1930s British motor industry, before finishing triumphantly at the Newport Arch, the gateway to the Roman city of Lincoln.
I know the Fosse Way.
I know of the Fosse Way.
I've never driven along it.
But are we going to be able to stick to it?
We'll veer off just off the central line that the Romans created, because those places are no longer passable in a vehicle.
There will be some bits of road that we can use, but they won't be as comfortable as others.
Yeah.
You do understand the implication of this, because who is it that keeps complaining about this car bouncing up and down?
Yes, I-- I take full responsibility for that.
All right.
So when we do that, I don't want to hear any whingeing from the seat next to me.
Very well.
♪ ♪ PETER (VOICEOVER): The motorway of its time, the Fosse Way was a vital route connecting Roman settlements and military outposts.
What happened when the Romans turned up is they kind of brought some order.
You know Life of Brian?
Did you ever see Life of Brian, Monty Python?
What have the Romans ever done for us?
Yeah.
Orderly laws.
Irrigation, yeah.
All right, they did that, yeah.
Sanitation.
Oh, yeah, all right.
Sanitation, all right.
And the roads, yeah, the roads, yeah.
But what have they ever done for us?
PETER (VOICEOVER): It's one of those 2,000 year old roads that we'll be motoring along for the next few days.
As we're traveling 1930s style and with such a long road ahead of us, I'm going to get Chris to take a 1930s driving test to make sure his skills are up to scratch.
Do you remember your first driving test?
I do, yeah.
I was about 26, I think.
Turned up on the day and I got in the car and for a while it seemed fine.
And I did a 3-point turn, which turned into a 7-point turn.
Then I hit the curb, and then I swore, and I saw him write something down.
And I am convinced to this day that what he wrote down was "failed."
[laughs] PETER (VOICEOVER): The driving test was first introduced in 1935 as a response to the increasing volume of traffic accidents on Britain's roads.
ANNOUNCER: Some people are always in such a hurry, they must pass anything, any time, and anyhow, regardless of the risk.
Here's a case in point.
Very selfish and dangerous.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): I'm going to sit the 1935 test in one of the best selling cars of that year, a Ford Model Y. PETER: So, Mr.
Timothy, welcome to your driving test.
It must be a very exciting day for you.
Oh, yes.
Yes, it is.
- Excited?
- It is.
I'm very excited.
- I'm not excited at all.
But this is the car we've chosen for you to drive today, Mr.
Timothy.
Don't worry.
It's a very easy car to drive.
PETER (VOICEOVER): For the first part of Chris's driving test, I'm going to check his knowledge of the hand signals used by '30s motorists.
Well, first, sir, I'd like to ask you to show me the hand position that indicates I am ready to turn left.
Left.
PETER: Yes.
That is a hand maneuver you're doing, sir, but it's more looks like you're trying to propel the car forward.
I don't quite know what the enormous flapping of the arm on that last hand position was.
But never mind, sir, we'll move on.
If you're ready, sir, would you like to start the engine and then proceed safely away in a forward motion?
Of course.
[engine revs, stalls] Not going too well, sir, is it?
The pass rate in 1935 was 63%.
I'm starting to see why.
Just let me make a note of this, sir.
Thank you.
- Yes, now of course.
Right, if you'd like to see this.
[engine revs] Right, sir.
While we're driving forward, sir, I'd like to ask you a few questions as regards the rules in the Highway Code.
Do you know-- I'm sorry, could you move your leg so I can change-- thank you.
- Do you know rule 31, sir?
What should you never do while being overtaken?
Um-- The answer is accelerate, sir, which we could do with a bit of right now, actually, if you wouldn't mind.
[engine revs] PETER (VOICEOVER): Moving on from the Highway Code, we're turning around for the next part of Chris's driving exam.
[engine revs] [clattering] PETER: Right, um-- [laughter] I'm sorry.
I'm a bit nervous.
PETER (VOICEOVER): It's time to test his reactions.
PETER: So surely, sir, we will be doing the emergency stop procedure.
Right.
And that means that when I tap the dashboard, you will make an emergency stop.
Do you understand?
- I do.
Right.
Jolly good.
[tap] [brakes screech] A second while I just get my heart going again.
Thank you.
- Everything OK?
Very good, sir.
Very good.
Was that satisfactory?
Very good.
If you'd like to start the car again and proceed forward.
Oh, yes.
Sorry.
I'm sorry.
I was feeling a bit smug then.
I'm sorry.
For that, I apologize.
No, it's absolutely fine, sir.
[whimsical piano music] PETER (VOICEOVER): Having reached the end of the test, we return to base.
All that is required now is for Chris to safely reverse the car into a parking space.
♪ ♪ In your own time, sir.
♪ ♪ Never say die, sir.
That's the thing.
Although it's what we may be doing very soon.
I'm sorry.
I'm sorry.
[laughter] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Like the thousands of motorists who sat the test in 1935, I await my results with nervous anticipation.
PETER: Right, sir, well, I'll be honest with you.
As I'm a bit late for my tea, and I don't really think I could go through this again, and the fact that the emergency stop was excellent, I'm going to pass you your driving test, sir.
Well done.
Congratulations.
Thank you very much.
It's been a pleasure meeting you.
Pleasure, sir.
- Well, have a nice tea.
- Thank you.
Thank you.
Who'd have thought it?
No one would have thought it.
[upbeat music] PETER (VOICEOVER): Back in the Morgan, I've taken the reins as we continue marching northwards along our Roman route.
Chris, how did you enjoy your 1935 driving test?
Well, that's a difficult-- difficult question.
Do you want to know how much I enjoyed it?
[laughter] This much.
I was terrified.
[laughs] CHRISTOPHER: So the great thing about these trips for me, I mean, for us, I think, is that I do get very nostalgic.
I love looking back and remembering, and being reminded of, and saying, oh, look, that was-- all those things.
And you have this, on the one hand, a passion for motoring and cars, and you also have a genuine interest in history.
Yeah, I suppose I do now.
I can say that now.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We've reached Bath, the largest city in Somerset, our second county.
It's a city famed for its elegant Georgian architecture and healing waters.
Established by the Romans in the first century AD, it wasn't long before they built the now famous baths.
It was for sure not just because they were grubby and needed to have a bath.
- Who?
Romans?
No, but although that was part of its function, but also it was social.
They liked to bath.
They all go-- yes.
And lounge in their togas at the side, while beautiful girls in diaphanous gowns fed them fruit.
You've been watching too much television.
No, I've seen the paintings.
And much use of gauze.
[laughs] Wispy gauze.
Wispy gauze.
Always landing in the right place.
He was a country singer, wasn't he, Wispy Gauze?
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): During the golden age of motoring, the city's baths were popular with travelers, and guidebooks of the time listed its extensive health benefits.
CHRISTOPHER: The three mineral springs to which Bath owes its names are the only natural hot springs in Great Britain and supply a radioactive lime carbonated water, highly diuretic and efficacious in rheumatism, gout, sciatica, neuritis, anemia, colitis, and skin diseases.
Did you just say, among that list, did you say radioactive?
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): I did.
And if that didn't stop the '30s writers from having a look, it isn't going to stop me either.
[soothing music] PETER: Well, it's awesome, isn't it?
CHRISTOPHER: And the fact that it's still here.
PETER: Well, these here, these are the genuine Roman stones, worn smooth by all those Roman feet and sandals, yeah, yeah.
And the reason that it's in such extraordinary condition, apparently, is because when the Romans left in the fifth century, we were useless at looking after it.
So we just buried it.
And it was left for 1,400 years beneath whatever they'd thrown on top of it until in the late 1800s, they discovered it.
They literally discovered it and dug it up.
CHRISTOPHER: In those days, I mean, I'm sure the Romans got very grubby with all this building they had to do and roads and stuff, so they would need to wash.
And so they had baths.
PETER: That's a good connection with roads, by the way.
I'm glad you brought that in.
CHRISTOPHER: It's OK.
You can't swim in it anymore, though, sadly, because they discovered a dangerous amoeba.
Although I think people do jump in simply because they're not allowed to.
You know?
Go on then.
I dare you.
[laughter] I've had my shower today.
[upbeat music] PETER (VOICEOVER): Leaving the baths behind us, we're heading back to the Fosse Way.
So far, our trip has indulged Chris's enthusiasm for history.
But now, as we enter Wiltshire, the route will put my love of driving to the test in what promises to be the most challenging part of our journey.
Quite soon, the-- the line of the Roman way becomes dots and dashes, and the main roads veer off to the left or the right.
On this, there's quite a few more tracks.
So I'm seriously looking forward to this, because I'm just waiting for the moments on this road where we will be challenged.
PETER (VOICEOVER): At this point, a satnav would direct a driver along a modern road.
But as we're traveling 1930s style, we're going to stick to the deteriorating Fosse Way and face it head on.
[clattering] This is the first experience, really, isn't it-- This is.
--of the Roman way or the Fosse Way, not on a proper road.
This is the forgotten part of the Fosse Way.
So, in other words, it's a bit of the road that was not picked up by later road builders.
PETER (VOICEOVER): With a swathe of potholes in front of us, the Fosse Way is becoming increasingly challenging to drive in the Morgan, but I'm determined.
It's not the best terrain for this car.
It's not really built for this.
I'm making my own little bends here.
You are.
And you're also doing it-- doing it to-- PETER: Whoa!
Look at that one.
Hey!
[laughs] This is actually quite fun.
Keeps you on your toes.
Oh.
Sorry about that.
I think a Roman soldier would be more comfortable walking than we are driving in the Morgan, actually.
But when you consider that they must have walked-- I mean, they walked miles, didn't they?
- Well, everyone did.
- Hundreds of miles.
I don't think they would have thought about it when that's the only option.
It wasn't like they were saying, oh, why don't we wait for the train?
CHRISTOPHER: Well, I bet they nudged each other and got really narky about the generals on their horses.
Yeah.
Oh, I'm sure.
I bet they in Latin said, it's all right for some.
PETER: [laughs] PETER (VOICEOVER): Just as the road begins to improve, we need to bear left to continue on the Fosse Way.
But there's a problem.
You can't get through there.
CHRISTOPHER: We can't go down there, Peter.
Look, it says no cars, and it's a gate.
That's a shame.
It's not a criticism.
It's partly my fault, but-- Obviously, the fact that it's got a big no entry sign for cars means that people must have tried it.
OK, navigator, now it's your turn to tell me which way we go to get back on it.
- Left.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): My hope is that we can get back on the Fosse Way by using this modern road to bypass the undrivable section.
Well, that's just farmland.
[upbeat music] [laughs] I don't-- no, I don't think so.
I suppose it would be too much to ask that you know where we are.
No, that would be completely-- that looks possible.
Or maybe it doesn't.
PETER: It says road closed a quarter of a mile ahead.
OK, I give up.
What should we do?
We turn around.
That's what we're doing.
PETER: Of course, I have no idea where I'm going, so you will have to-- really.
OK, here we go.
I bet the Romans didn't have this problem, you know, roads being closed.
They just build another one.
Yes.
[laughs] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): An hour after coming off it, we find our way back onto the Fosse Way and motor on into our fourth county, Gloucestershire, and the picturesque Cotswolds.
PETER (VOICEOVER): Famed for its rolling hills and chocolate box cottages, its beauty attracted many of the 1930s travel writers who wrote the guidebooks accompanying us on our Roman adventure.
The Cotswolds, to give it its official name, is one of the many places in England that can be explored again and again, and never be found the same in winter, summer, autumn, and spring.
It is always new, always friendly.
The road you follow is always showing you something entirely unexpected just around the next corner.
PETER: It's promising, isn't it?
PETER (VOICEOVER): And just around the corner from the Fosse Way is a hidden gem dedicated to breathing new life into vintage vehicles.
It's the perfect pit stop for classic car fans like myself.
Well, it's hardly what you'd expect in the middle of nowhere, is it?
- No.
- Afternoon, gents.
- Hi.
I'm Chris.
- Hi.
Martin.
How do you do?
- Hi Martin.
- Good to meet you.
Good to meet you, Martin.
Hi.
Welcome.
So this is your place?
This is my man cave, yeah.
Tell us about these amazing things.
Well, we've got all sorts of things here.
They're not all for sale.
Some are.
Most are for sale.
The little one there was Sterling Moss's first-- first drive.
And then we've got the odd Ferrari, MGs, Hispano Suiza from Spain.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): With such a wealth of cars, there are lots of intriguing quirks of design on display.
PETER: Can I just have a look at this?
Because this is a motorcar.
- The Packard?
It's an American made car.
Yes.
But this is quite a rare example.
It's right hand drive, but with the sometimes called a mother-in-law seat, the rumble seat.
Have you ever sat in the rumble seat?
I've never sat in a rumble seat, no.
Do you want to have a go?
I've never heard of a rumble seat.
So you've got steps there.
Right, OK.
This could be embarrassing.
Right.
And that's designed to put the mother-in-law in.
And then up and in you go.
Could you then just shut the thing and keep the mother-in-law actually inside there?
You don't have to sit there with her bending your ear.
How comfortable would this be?
Go on, move over.
[laughter] In you get.
This is almost like the Morgan.
Well, it's not designed for comfort, is it?
It's designed to give you a peaceful life in the front.
Out in all weathers.
Yes, yes.
Yeah, it's certainly more comfortable than the Morgan.
It's such a monster of a car.
I love it.
Does this window open for driver?
I think-- I bet it-- doesn't it?
There we go.
You wind it down.
But I think it's designed not to be particularly easy.
Understood, understood.
PETER: So now how do we get out, Chris?
I'm not getting out.
You go and look at the other cars.
PETER (VOICEOVER): Martin's man cave is a treasure trove of vintage vehicles spanning over 100 years of motoring history.
In a way, what's nice about it is that it's not just a museum.
I mean, it's nice-- even though I could never afford any of these cars, it's nice to know that they are for sale.
Yeah.
And I think also, you know, with the modern motoring world, everything is so sort of transient.
Cars come and go.
They've become a functioning tool to get you to and from work.
Whereas actually this, it allows you to just sort of stop and take stock for a little while.
And here's a car that whilst you're not going to use it every day, you still could use it, and it's over 100 years old.
It's a fascinating look back at what our ancestors lived with.
[upbeat music] PETER (VOICEOVER): Back in the Morgan, I can't help but think it might have been nice to make a purchase.
PETER: It would have been fun to have a big wodge of money, wouldn't it?
Just go in and just buy a car.
Buy a classic car.
I'll have that one, please.
I'll have that Packard.
Chris, get in the rumble seat.
Off we go.
CHRIS: [laughs] PETER (VOICEOVER): Continuing north on our Roman adventure, directions to the villas that once housed the empire's elite catch Chris's eye.
The English weather, when it's not at its best, wouldn't have-- in those villas, wouldn't have proved much of a problem because of the underfloor heating.
Yeah.
So they were in luxury.
And there must be one near Birmingham.
Why?
Aston Villa.
Oh.
Hang on.
Well, it's just a thought.
I've been winded by that one.
OK.
It's not good enough for you?
PETER (VOICEOVER): With over 120 miles still in front of us, hopefully Chris's jokes will improve as we drive through the Midlands, the home of the British motor industry.
Oh, [bleep].
PETER (VOICEOVER): Oh, Chris.
[laughs] [upbeat music] I think I've done the same thing.
[laughter] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): We're halfway through our journey along the Fosse Way.
It's a road that stretches from the southwest to the east of England, passing through eight counties along the way.
We're in Warwickshire.
The fifth county of our journey.
So what are they so far?
Devon, Somerset, Wiltshire, and Gloucestershire.
See?
You cheated.
You cheated.
You wrote it down.
Of course I wrote it down.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Our 270 mile Roman adventure is one of the longest we've undertaken, and is offering us wonderful opportunities to indulge my passion for history and Peter's love of motoring.
So we're now driving towards Midlands.
And the very heart of the motor industry.
PETER (VOICEOVER): In the 1930s, the Midlands was the epicenter of British car manufacturing, attracting some of the biggest names in the business.
My first car, it was a Hillman Minx, which was built at a place called Ryton-on-Dunsmore, which is just a suburb really of Coventry.
I bought it because it looked kind of cute, really.
It looked nice.
Yeah.
And it was a friendly looking car.
Third gear was a bit knackered.
It would make a terrible whining noise.
And then on the journey back from South Wales once, the handbrake-- the brakes gave out.
The hydraulic fluid drained out of the car and I had to drive all the way back on the handbrake.
[laughter] Is it because we're getting older?
As you get older, those things, the make up, the memories, your early memories, first car or whatever, first job, you want to connect with them again.
So you're being a bit nostalgic.
Yeah, I'm being very nostalgic.
Well, that's great.
That's good.
- Am I turning into you?
[laughter] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): There's nothing wrong with a bit of nostalgia.
This is Peter with that first car, his beloved Hillman Minx.
As we're in the Midlands, I thought I'd indulge his new nostalgic side with a trip down memory lane.
I see a Hillman Minx.
Yeah.
Yeah, look.
Wow.
Tugs at the old heartstrings, Chris.
Hello.
I'm Peter.
Hello.
Dale.
How you doing?
- Nice to see you.
Hi, Dale.
I'm Chris.
- Chris, how you doing?
- Good.
Yeah, I'm good.
- Wow, look at this.
CHRISTOPHER: Yeah, I know Pete's, I mean, seriously excited about seeing it.
What's your connection?
It was my late father's.
He passed away about two years ago.
So this car was restored.
He bought it in '96, and then he restored it in '98.
So it's been in this condition since '98 now.
That's one of 15 left on the UK roads.
Is it really one of 15?
Yeah, it's only one of 15 left.
So what's the attraction?
I mean, both of you.
Well, my attraction is to keep my father's work alive.
That's the main thing.
Your dad was obviously fanatical about it.
DALE: Yeah, yeah.
And you have inherited that.
DALE: Yeah, yeah.
- Amazing.
That's jolly good.
Yeah.
I want to keep it going, definitely.
I just liked it because it was-- you know, there were the Fords and the Morris and Austins, and I just thought this was slightly just something a bit different.
Can I sit in it?
Yeah, carry on, carry on.
Yeah.
Might be a bit easier than the Morgan maybe.
[laughter] It certainly is that.
CHRISTOPHER: Anything is easier than the Morgan.
Whoa.
Yes.
Yes, the smell of it.
Takes you back, does it?
It's great.
Are we allowed to have a go?
DALE: Yeah, certainly.
- Are we?
DALE: Certainly, certainly.
That'd be fantastic.
This will be a trip down memory lane for me.
A new experience for you.
Oh, look how comfy it is.
[engine starts] PETER (VOICEOVER): It's been 46 years since I last sat behind the wheel of one of these, but it feels just like yesterday.
CHRISTOPHER: So getting in there is like riding a bicycle?
Once you've done it.
PETER: Yeah, it really is, actually.
Well, it's just, I don't know, as I say, it was my first car.
It was the car I really-- I didn't learn to drive on it, but it's the car I became very familiar with.
So it's just all-- everything about it is familiar.
It's cool, this.
[laughs] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): To give Peter a chance to get back into the swing of driving it again, we're taking the Hillman on a short detour off the Fosse Way.
So we're on this stretch of road now, which is called the Bow Tie.
This is a road in which you're going around bends.
Not too bad, not hairpin bends.
But part of the fun of driving a car is going round the bends.
So are you suggesting the people driving up the Roman way think, oh, I need some bends.
It's a great route.
It's a fantastic route.
But the straightness of it, after a while, it's almost hypnotizing.
Yeah.
PETER (VOICEOVER): It feels like no time has passed since I last drove a Hillman, although my driving companion is slightly different these days.
Good snogging car, wouldn't you say?
Good snogging car?
Well, the bench seat and all that.
Oh, you've got the bench seat, yes.
But the bench seat was good-- it wasn't really so much for snogging, but you could do this.
Oh, that's really-- see, that's really nice.
It's a major thing when you buy your first car and it's your lump of metal.
But it just has a very special place.
That's what I would say.
And as I said, as you get older, you just want to reconnect with those things.
I loved driving it today.
It was a real trip down memory lane.
[whimsical music] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): After wrenching the Hillman from Peter's hands, we motor on.
We're approaching Leicestershire, the sixth county of our trip, and we're embarking on an historical mission.
What we're looking for is the very center of Roman Britain.
They've erected some kind of-- Monument?
--monument, pointer, to tell you where that point is.
And that's what we're looking for.
What's the actual name of the place.
Do you know that?
Highcross is it, I think?
Well, there's a place here called Cross In Hand.
Could be.
So Highcross logically would be above that, wouldn't it?
You'd think.
[laughs] Yeah, that might be-- that might be pushing logic too far.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): The site we're searching for marks the intersection of two major Roman roads.
I wonder how many other people-- Go on.
--go searching for the center of Roman Britain.
I would have thought there'd be more than not just us.
You think it'd be quite a popular thing to look for?
Well-- I can't believe it.
There's another road closed.
How are you meant to find your way up the Fosse Way if people keep closing roads?
Look.
Highcross.
Highcross.
Why isn't it marked on the map?
That's what I don't understand.
PETER (VOICEOVER): Despite the detour around the closed road and the small navigational issue, it looks like our destination is finally up ahead.
Oh, look, there it is.
Look, look, look, look, look.
That, Chris, is the center of Roman Britain.
Wow.
Except the car is so low, I can't see out of it.
Yep, that's it.
It's in someone's front garden.
Well, it looks like a garden certainly.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Intrigued, we decide to find out more from the owners.
Hello.
Good afternoon.
- Hello, I'm Chris.
- Gurch.
Gurch.
Hi, yes.
Nice to see you.
Hi.
So we found the center of Roman Britain, the exact dead center of Roman Britain.
It's like finding the Holy Grail.
And is it in your garden?
It is, actually, yes.
The best thing was the first day when we moved here, that weekend we opened the gate and there's about 30, 40 people.
There's a coach-- coach load of people out there.
We just opened the door and said-- Coach pulled up there on the A5, and they just walked across there and they were all wandering around.
And were you not affronted?
Did you-- No.
It was a bit of a shock.
You know, we didn'tg expect that.
You get used to it.
We expected people to come and have a look, but not coachloads at the time.
So are you proud of it that it's here or do you feel-- It's nice.
It's great, you know.
When people ask where you live, I say, well, we live in the middle of the country.
Middle of the country, yeah.
Dead center of Roman Britain.
If they dispute it, we'll say, well, we've got a monument to prove it.
- Exactly.
Absolutely.
GURCH: There's no arguing with that, is there?
Well, thank you very much for allowing us to be another couple of trespassers on your land.
Thank you.
Thanks a lot.
Have a nice journey.
- Thank you.
You too.
Bye.
Bye.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Heading on from our historic pit stop, we've taken a gamble with the weather and put the roof down.
Oops.
I can feel little droplets of rain.
Oh, no.
Come on.
We haven't had the roof down for ages.
I know.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): With fingers crossed that the rain holds off, we continue through Leicestershire.
Leicestershire.
What do you know about Leicestershire?
It's famous because it's got a few market towns, doesn't it, like Market Harborough?
Is that-- Ashby de-la-Zouch.
I love that name.
Places like that.
There is Robin Hood.
That's Nottinghamshire, isn't it?
Oh, yeah.
[laughs] PETER (VOICEOVER): While Leicestershire may not be able to lay claim to Robin Hood, there's no doubting its part in the rich motoring heritage of the Midlands.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): In 1909, a landmark journey took place when the John Bull, the county's first motorized bus, took to its roads.
But this piece of motoring history was almost lost forever in someone's back garden.
Fortunately, it was rescued by farmer and engineering enthusiast Greg Duffin, and we've pulled off the Fosse Way to meet his son, Tom.
Hello.
- Hello there.
- I'm Peter.
Nice to meet you.
Tom.
- Hi, Tom, I'm Chris.
- Hi.
Good to meet you.
You too.
Tell us about this magnificent thing.
TOM: Ah, the bus?
This was actually the first bus.
It was.
It was the first bus to run in Leicestershire.
And it came up to Leicestershire in 1909.
And a chap called Morris Reith bought it, and they sent the driver up with it for a week.
Because of course, before that, it had horses and carriages.
Yeah, of course.
TOM: We found it being used as a garden shed in the 1980s.
So this has been completely rebuilt?
Yeah, more or less, yeah.
Unfortunately, it was separated from the chassis.
So my dad swapped the bus body for a new garden shed.
The people owned.
Yeah.
We brought the body in and started from there.
He gave them a garden shed?
Because he was taking their garden shed, which was this bus.
And then we started on the adventure of finding all the bits for it.
Was that just luck, or did you go around the country sleuthing to find these various parts?
A bit of everything, really.
Yeah, a bit of everything.
Was it always in this formulation?
Was it-- Originally it was a double decker.
And apparently on its maiden voyage, there was a bit of local press coverage, and the headmistress of the local school in Anstey was knocked off by a low branch.
And the licensing authority, whoever that was at the time, ordered them to take the top deck off.
And it was left with just the parcel rail around it.
So that's why it's got the staircase that goes nowhere.
Sadly, it's not going today.
No, we've had a problem with the engine.
So we were just about to tackle taking the engine to bits when you arrived, actually.
So we've been having a look at it and inspecting-- working out what we've got to do to it to get it back on the road for next summer.
- Can I go inside?
Yeah, welcome.
Come on in.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): The John Bull is housed in a mini motor museum situated on the family farm.
PETER: But you've collected other things.
I can't help noticing everywhere I look there's either motorbikes, old cars, bits and pieces.
So this is something that your family has done?
Yeah, yeah.
The whole family's always been fascinated with cars, really, old cars.
In fact, my daughter's just started driving.
She's driving an Austin 12 now.
So it's going on through the next generation.
What's so nice about it is-- and I mean this as a compliment-- it's quite higgledy piggledy.
I mean, it's not like a precious collection of perfectly restored cars.
It's the higgledy piggledy that makes it so good.
Well, thanks.
We're good at buying and finding old cars and things, but we're not very good at selling them.
That's why we've got such a big collection.
The only things we're good at selling are bags of potatoes and cups of tea in the tea shop.
PETER (VOICEOVER): The John Bull is a beautiful piece of motoring history.
And before we go, I'm going to take the chance to fulfill a childhood dream.
Right, so this is the accelerator here, is it?
Yeah, And it's really nice and simple to drive, because of course, they had to make it usable for someone who had just come from a horse and carriage.
And they even left C and B on the pedals so you don't get mixed up.
PETER: Wow.
I could fulfill my passion about being a bus driver I never did.
When I was a boy, all you ever wanted to do was be a bus driver or a lorry driver.
Excellent.
I can pretend we're moving along.
Chris, you're the conductor.
Pass along the bus, please.
[horn honks] Good.
Good sound.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): The following morning, after overnighting in a local hotel, we're back on the road.
And Peter has something he wants to get off his chest.
PETER: I'd like to just point out to the owners of these hotels that no one wants to steal your coat hangers.
Oh, yes.
They have those ridiculous things with a little bobble of metal at the end, and it's so you don't nick them.
You can't nick them and take them home.
No one wants to do this.
The days are gone when people wanted to steal coat hangers.
The world is full of too many coat hangers.
I put my shirt very neatly on the thing and I think I put it into the little slot, and then it just drops to the floor.
[laughs] I know.
I'll have to go and iron it again.
My heart lifts on the odd occasion when you open the wardrobe and there are ordinary coat hangers.
- Yes.
Absolutely.
That's my point.
I think it's very well worth mentioning.
Thank you.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We're now on the final leg of our trip, and we've reached Nottinghamshire, the seventh county on our epic motoring and historical journey.
This is so lovely, isn't it?
Roof down and the sun shining.
PETER: Top hole.
CHRISTOPHER: Top hole.
PETER (VOICEOVER): In 1929, the county appointed a trailblazing new Chief Constable, the wonderfully named Athelstan Popkess.
Renowned as an innovator, he was responsible for many UK policing firsts, including the first patrol cars with radios.
PETER: Athelstan Popkess.
Athelstan Popkess.
Athelstan Popkess.
Why has no one named a group Athelstan Popkess?
Well, it's a good name.
I've got a quote from Athelstan.
Yeah, Athelstan.
It says-- I'm not sure what accent he had.
Anyway, he says, "Not only must the community have a police force, but it must be made aware of the fact it has one, very much on the alert to come to its aid at all times and in all weathers."
Well, quite right.
I think he was quite hard line.
By the way, I'm liking the gear changes.
They're very good.
CHRISTOPHER: Are you?
PETER: Yeah, well, you're enjoying them.
I'm slightly depressed about the idea that you might enjoy driving the Morgan, actually.
CHRISTOPHER: Why?
Well, because I don't really like reading the maps.
Just look in the-- [bell ringing] There's is a police car following.
I think we might have slipped through a wormhole in time.
You better pull over, Chris.
[bell ringing] Right.
I'm just the passenger.
This is up to you to deal with this, Chris.
Good morning, sir.
Morning, Officer.
Do you know it's an offense to drive slowly on the highway?
Do you know I didn't?
OFFICER: Ah, yes.
- That's extraordinary.
Do you mind stepping out of the car, please, sir?
- I'll give you a push.
- Will you?
God bless you.
Do I have to get out of the car too?
Yes, please.
Oh, dear.
Well, it's a fair cop.
Good.
Well, would you like to come this way?
I would, yes.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): The policeman that's pulled us over is David, the owner of this 1937 Wolseley 14/56 Saloon that he's lovingly restored and brought back to life.
PETER: It's a Wolseley police car.
DAVID: Yes, 1937.
PETER: Is it really?
They used these cars pre-war and during the war, up to about 1950.
PETER: Well, I think you could take him off now to prison.
DAVID: You reckon?
Yeah, I'll just carry on my way.
Oh, will you?
No, you want to be in it, don't you?
Yeah, go on.
Sit inside.
I want to sit inside.
- Is that allowed?
Yeah, carry on.
Do you want to get in the front?
Oh, OK.
Well, I can play the policeman.
- Yes.
Very good.
CHRISTOPHER: Look on the dashboard is art deco.
DAVID: It is art deco.
Yes.
PETER: It could be on your mantelpiece that, couldn't it?
CHRISTOPHER: Absolutely.
PETER: So, Chris, is this your first time in the back of a police car?
If it weren't, I wouldn't tell you, would I?
Particularly not on television.
Do me a favor.
All right, John, take me off, then.
Sit quietly, son.
We've got you bang to rights.
You can start it.
[bell ringing] - How do I do that?
Yes!
[upbeat drumming] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Having fortunately avoided the clink-- [engine starts] --we're now following the last stretch of the Fosse Way to our final destination, Lincoln.
Tally ho!
[laughs] We've escaped.
We've escaped the rozzers.
And Lincoln is within our sights.
It's, what, about 12 miles away?
Yeah.
Brilliant.
And that'll be it.
I know.
[upbeat music] CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): Four days ago, we set ourselves the challenge of traveling along a 2,000 year old route from Devon to Lincolnshire.
We're now within marching distance of our journey's end, Lincoln's Newport Arch, one of the Roman gateways to the city.
CHRISTOPHER: It's been a hell of a long journey, hasn't it?
What was your favorite part?
I think it's the farm.
PETER: I thought it was nice even when we got lost and we couldn't find the Fosse Way, just the wiggling backwards and forwards-- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
--trying to find it, and doing our best to get as far as we could up it.
I think that was my favorite.
I thought it was seriously good fun.
Yeah, that and finding the center of Roman England, of course, in someone's back garden.
PETER (VOICEOVER): It's been an epic journey.
And now up ahead is our final stop on the Fosse Way.
PETER: You could say that all roads-- all roads lead to Rome except the Fosse Way that leads to Lincoln.
Oh, look, here we go.
PETER (VOICEOVER): We've made it.
After a trip packed full of nostalgic treats and motoring marvels, we've reached the end of our adventure.
So much easier with the roof down.
Well, marginally, I'd say.
So this here is the Newport Arch, which I think is the north arch of the Roman city.
Over 3,000 years old.
No, bought and built in the third century.
- Of course.
- Yeah.
So how long is that then?
Well, it's not 2,000 years old, actually.
Isn't it?
No, because it's only 2019 now, isn't it?
It's not as good as 3,000, is it?
I'm sorry.
Still pretty impressive, though, eh.
And this whole city, Lincoln, it was a sort of retirement town for legionnaires.
Probably because they were knackered after walking all the way from Axmouth.
I don't like the way you're going.
You think we should just stay here now?
Maybe we should just retire.
Well, it's worth coming all this way to see this, I think.
Yeah, I agree.
[upbeat music] PETER (VOICEOVER): What a wonderful road trip it's been, motoring along the Fosse Way.
We've clocked up 270 miles, marched through eight counties, meeting some remarkable people and their cars.
CHRISTOPHER (VOICEOVER): And what a joy to do it all with my old mate.
[upbeat music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪
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